#Suzy米兰时装周：Prada – 性感魅惑的女性主义(2)
After a few seasons where she appeared to be drifting, here was Mrs Prada, as she is called by her entire team, speaking out through clothes. In her long discourses backstage, she was evidently galvanised by what has been happening in the world. The subtext was that Hillary had lost. But how does that correlate on stage to the lumpy corduroy trousers, the velvet bras, droopy knits in vivid colours and those miles of feathers shrieking "vulgarity" as much as sexy pearlised sandals?
Prada Autumn/Winter 2017
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The real message was, of course, desire - that Prada needs to ooze if it is to ratchet up flagging financial figures. Miuccia's strategy was stellar: mixing a statement piece - say a colourful coat that looked as if it were hand painted - over the simple, normal, everyday clothes that the designer herself wears.
The texture message was vibrant, with furs - fake and real - those colourful collars and perhaps a pair of Ugg-style boots in scarlet and black fur. Or there might be a simple white sheath dress with dangling glassy strings as at a Twenties party.
Prada Autumn/Winter 2017
Indigital
Occasionally there were pieces that exemplified the Prada concept of bourgeois with a twist. That would encompass tailored suits patterned with digitally-inspired diamond patterns or a plain velvet jacket against a fancy top and a flower patterned skirt hemmed in marabou. Customers will, of course, pull out the plum pieces, but that did not have to be something simple - it could be a blue and white rose patterned jacket.
Prada Autumn/Winter 2017
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It is difficult to believe that even Prada's greatest fans would pile on the outfits as shown. Although the designer's revival of female figures blown up on a dress might be more appealing than today's ubiquitous "we are all feminist" white t-shirts.
Prada Autumn/Winter 2017
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What Miuccia is selling is, ultimately, ambiguity. A customer can buy any single piece, mostly stylish and wearable, knowing that as it was shown on the runway it had a different, perverse or even aggressive quality. The show lauded seduction for empowered women. But the greatest seduction will be of those women who were not going to buy anything new - and then they saw Prada.
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